![]() ![]() If you prefer a bit more vintage looseness in the lows, the C1 can oblige when you ramp up the bass control. The most impressive thing is the way the C1 captures the harmonically loaded and slightly blurry chime that characterises the classic Vox sound. Compared to the old one, the treble isn’t quite as sweet, but the C1’s bass response is considerably tighter and better defined. With the reverb turned off, the C1 can sound very much like a vintage AC10’s normal channel. Despite all the construction changes between the C1 and the vintage AC10, the tonal similarities were more apparent than the differences. Better still, the vintage example was retrofitted with a top boost module and the input resistors had been changed to AC15 spec to make it louder and brighter. It was fortunate to have an original ’63 AC10 on hand to compare with the C1. ![]() It also means there is a greater range of tones than you might normally get from a regular two-band equaliser. So some familiarisation is required before you can start to get the hang of the tone controls, which means dialling in a sound can take a bit longer than you’d usually expect. There also appears to be some degree of crossover between the controls, which changes the timbre of the midrange. Turning up the treble control increases high-frequency response much as you might expect, but beyond the halfway point the bass begins to roll off as treble is increased. Bass response seems to be fairly neutral about halfway up, so you can roll it off or boost it. The C1’s tone controls respond and interact in a peculiar and slightly unpredictable way that’s not dissimilar to the old Vox top boost arrangement. So there’s plenty of air moving around inside the cabinet to keep things cool. Standing over the amp and playing a powerchord, I felt a blast of air from the top vent hit me full in the face. Once everything looks right click the "Post" button.Cathode biased Vox amps are known to run hot, but fear not. When quoting (or really anytime you are making a reply) it's a good idea to click the "Preview" button to make sure your reply will appear as you want. Now place the cursor between the quote brackets, right click and choose "paste" to insert the text that's on the clipboard. Click the "Insert Quote" button at the top of the reply window and the quote brackets (tag codes) will be placed in the reply window at the point of the cursor without any text. Open the reply window if not already open. The text can be anywhere, ie, this forum page, any other web page, any other program (This is a standard Windows operation). Highlight any text, right click and choose "copy" to put that text on the Window's clipboard. All the text of that message will be inserted into the reply window AT THE POINT OF THE EDIT CURSOR.ģ. Then simply click the "insert Quote" link. If you already have the reply window open you can scroll down until you find a post you want to quote. The reply window will open with the entire message already quoted. While viewing a message click on the quote link at the top right of the message. There are three easy ways to insert a quote.ġ. voltage directly to the plate pins (including the 100Ω resistors), I got 290.6mV at the Green wire and 211.8mV at the Brown wire. Voltage ratio check aligns with my resistance measurements earlier. Once I went to check the OT winding ratio, I found the wall voltage (and variac output) had crept up to 116.3vac. If you want the amp to be bone stock, just replace it with a piece of wire.īelow are the voltages for the power section of the chassis. Does it appear to have been added later? Sounds like someone just wanted to add a shared screen resistor to give the tubes a little protection. I don't see a 6.8K CC resistor in any of your pics. The lead with the higher voltage is the 15Ω lead. Then just measure the voltage between chassis and the two secondary leads. Ie, jumper pin 4 to pin 7 of one tube and pin 5 to pin 7 of the other tube. Then use two gator clip leads to connect the 6.3VAC filament voltage to the plates of the EL84s. Pull the EZ81 tube so no B+ will be present. The voltage check is easier than you might think. ![]() If the two readings are too close together to tell then you will have to resort to the voltage check. The higher resistance reading is the 15Ω lead. Check resistance between chassis and the brown lead then between chassis and the green lead. You may be able to use an ohmmeter to determine which OT lead is which. ![]()
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